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![]() Drilling pillars; waste of time.
If you just cant manage the air drill free hand then it probably isn't the best tool for the job. Most times if there is holes to bolt a pillar to then just bolt a piece of scrap plate down to stick the mag base to, use bits of wood as packing to get the angle. Sometimes if a row of holes in the same plane to be done tack a piece of scrap plate on to the job right the way across and knock that off when you're done. |
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I don't agree with you on the strong arms being a waste of time, you are wasting your time not using one if using an air drill. Mag drills as I said are the way forward if they can be used, however they are limited in certain circumstances. As regards bases it's quicker to put a ratchet strap round the job and strap the plate to the work, as you are always on the move. I have an adjustable one that I used with three ratchet straps to drill in the most awkward positions on the Robey, Just a case of loosening the straps, adjusting the feet, tighten the strap and use the drill. Cheers Dave
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"Just Go With The flow, Don't Flog It, Nice And Slow" |
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![]() Dave,
It seems we basically agree; "mag bases are the way forward". In ten years heavy boiler work I have never used a drilling pillar; I have watched others wasting their time wrestling with them and getting fair to poor results; but get the job done eventually. Air drills not really that good for drilling; in the same way that ratchet drills before them weren't either but I can manage the big air drills free hand if I need to (but more for bridge reaming or c/sinking than drilling) and the medium ones are useless as they (or at least the ones we have) spin too fast for even a 1/2inch drill which an decent electric pistol drill will handle anyway. I also do the ratchet strap fixing for a mag base thing and have made a ratchet strap fixed mag base base specifically for barrels using about 15" of large channel about 8"x3" cutting ratchet strap shaped slots in the flanges of the channel towards each end so the channel device can be strapped to the barrel "legs" down and the mag base sat on the web. I have also made one with odd length legs for when working around a doubling plate so longer leg sits on the barrel and the other sits on the doubling plate but the part where the drill sits is still generally tangential to the barrel. |
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I have sent you a PM. :-)
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"Just Go With The flow, Don't Flog It, Nice And Slow" |
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I do say though, you can go much larger than 1/2" with a Mag drill, I only have a little Mag drill and drilled my tube plate it it, they were getting on for 2" holes. 20 mm Rivet holes are easy and fast with any Mag drill I would say. Have faith in your Mag drill! ![]()
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"Just Go With The flow, Don't Flog It, Nice And Slow" |
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![]() Some time ago I had no option but to use a ratchet drill simply because I couldn't get any magbase into the obstructed area. I was lucky to get some tips from Henry Netherway and after a short time I was amazed at how efficient it was. I had to drill 6off holes, 1.5" diameter x 4" deep. It took me two days 'off and on'. Physical work but I had no other option. Ordinarily my magbase or radial drill would win every time.
Cheers Carl. |
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![]() generally i use the radial drill as much as possible even if i have to spend some time setting up just to drill one or two holes as it is so effortless with the auto feed. mag drills we have drifted away from them as they are big, heavy cumbersome items and generally you can do the same job with the radial. air drills we use mainly for reaming and counter sinking but occasionally i use it for drilling holes like in the image below. as it is easier than fighting with a mag and obviously i can't get the radial there to do the job either way pro's and con's for all 3 but the air drill does do a super job if you can use the tail screw to get pressure onto the drill.
regards sam |
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