Wanted - Drill Post

[steamy1]

I have just looked in my 1964 Buck & Hickman tool Catalogue, they are listed as "Drilling Pillars".


I wonder, could one of these be adapted?

[buzzy bee]

Originally Posted by steamy1

I have just looked in my 1964 Buck & Hickman tool Catalogue, they are listed as "Drilling Pillars".


I wonder, could one of these be adapted?

It won't be strong enough, the ones I made flex to some degree!

[rustexpert]

Drilling pillars; waste of time.
If you just cant manage the air drill free hand then it probably isn't the best tool for the job.
Most times if there is holes to bolt a pillar to then just bolt a piece of scrap plate down to stick the mag base to, use bits of wood as packing to get the angle. Sometimes if a row of holes in the same plane to be done tack a piece of scrap plate on to the job right the way across and knock that off when you're done.

[buzzy bee]

Originally Posted by rustexpert

Drilling pillars; waste of time.
If you just cant manage the air drill free hand then it probably isn't the best tool for the job.
Most times if there is holes to bolt a pillar to then just bolt a piece of scrap plate down to stick the mag base to, use bits of wood as packing to get the angle. Sometimes if a row of holes in the same plane to be done tack a piece of scrap plate on to the job right the way across and knock that off when you're done.

Hi Phil

I don't agree with you on the strong arms being a waste of time, you are wasting your time not using one if using an air drill.

Mag drills as I said are the way forward if they can be used, however they are limited in certain circumstances.

As regards bases it's quicker to put a ratchet strap round the job and strap the plate to the work, as you are always on the move. I have an adjustable one that I used with three ratchet straps to drill in the most awkward positions on the Robey, Just a case of loosening the straps, adjusting the feet, tighten the strap and use the drill.

Cheers

Dave

[rustexpert]

Dave,
It seems we basically agree; "mag bases are the way forward".
In ten years heavy boiler work I have never used a drilling pillar; I have watched others wasting their time wrestling with them and getting fair to poor results; but get the job done eventually. Air drills not really that good for drilling; in the same way that ratchet drills before them weren't either but I can manage the big air drills free hand if I need to (but more for bridge reaming or c/sinking than drilling) and the medium ones are useless as they (or at least the ones we have) spin too fast for even a 1/2inch drill which an decent electric pistol drill will handle anyway.
I also do the ratchet strap fixing for a mag base thing and have made a ratchet strap fixed mag base base specifically for barrels using about 15" of large channel about 8"x3" cutting ratchet strap shaped slots in the flanges of the channel towards each end so the channel device can be strapped to the barrel "legs" down and the mag base sat on the web. I have also made one with odd length legs for when working around a doubling plate so longer leg sits on the barrel and the other sits on the doubling plate but the part where the drill sits is still generally tangential to the barrel.

[buzzy bee]

Originally Posted by rustexpert

Dave,
It seems we basically agree; "mag bases are the way forward".
In ten years heavy boiler work I have never used a drilling pillar; I have watched others wasting their time wrestling with them and getting fair to poor results; but get the job done eventually. Air drills not really that good for drilling; in the same way that ratchet drills before them weren't either but I can manage the big air drills free hand if I need to (but more for bridge reaming or c/sinking than drilling) and the medium ones are useless as they (or at least the ones we have) spin too fast for even a 1/2inch drill which an decent electric pistol drill will handle anyway.
I also do the ratchet strap fixing for a mag base thing and have made a ratchet strap fixed mag base base specifically for barrels using about 15" of large channel about 8"x3" cutting ratchet strap shaped slots in the flanges of the channel towards each end so the channel device can be strapped to the barrel "legs" down and the mag base sat on the web. I have also made one with odd length legs for when working around a doubling plate so longer leg sits on the barrel and the other sits on the doubling plate but the part where the drill sits is still generally tangential to the barrel.

I have used an air drill a lot, yes it takes a while, but in all fairness not much slower than with a mag drill when you can feed it through on a strong arm, There is no way anyone I know can push a twist drill of any size through free hand, whilst holding the drill square and also more often than not in an awkward position, Like you say with using the decent sized ones.

I have sent you a PM. :-)

[island steamer]

Dave, I don't know what air drills you have been using but all those that I have used and was using this afternoon drilling 25/32 holes have speed controlled with the twist grip which is totally variable. Yes I do own a mag drill and it is very good for small holes but any thing 1/2" and above is best done with the air drill and as for you using a large air drill free hand, be careful as it will bite you one day and you will go around with it , and yes its happend to me and have the scars to prove , Use a drill post. The other good thing about air drills is you can stall one without damaging it, Stall an electric drill to often and you chance buggering it.
Happy Steaming.

[buzzy bee]

Originally Posted by island steamer

Dave, I don't know what air drills you have been using but all those that I have used and was using this afternoon drilling 25/32 holes have speed controlled with the twist grip which is totally variable. Yes I do own a mag drill and it is very good for small holes but any thing 1/2" and above is best done with the air drill and as for you using a large air drill free hand, be careful as it will bite you one day and you will go around with it , and yes its happend to me and have the scars to prove , Use a drill post. The other good thing about air drills is you can stall one without damaging it, Stall an electric drill to often and you chance buggering it.
Happy Steaming.

Kieth, I think you have miss read the thread, do you mean Phil? For drilling with an air drill I use a strong arm, for other operations, reaming etc, free hand is more than adequate.

I do say though, you can go much larger than 1/2" with a Mag drill, I only have a little Mag drill and drilled my tube plate it it, they were getting on for 2" holes. 20 mm Rivet holes are easy and fast with any Mag drill I would say. Have faith in your Mag drill!

[rustexpert]

All I said was;

Originally Posted by rustexpert

In ten years heavy boiler work I have never used a drilling pillar; I have watched others wasting their time wrestling with them and getting fair to poor results; but get the job done eventually. Air drills not really that good for drilling; in the same way that ratchet drills before them weren't either but I can manage the big air drills free hand if I need to (but more for bridge reaming or c/sinking than drilling) and the medium ones are useless as they (or at least the ones we have) spin too fast for even a 1/2inch drill which an decent electric pistol drill will handle anyway.

I must have got it wrong; even though the list of my rivet/stay/washout etc. hole generating exploits and excesses is long and very boring. Ha Ha!