3/4 BSP Bronze taper cock tap
 

Hi, I’ve found new ones at Leengate valves however I was wondering if anybody had something to an older pattern.

Mines seen better days at it spends most of its time open however it came in useful when the steam tap stuck open. I may use it more in the future. It’s for isolating the injector whilst using the lifter as there is only one steam take-off

Leengate ones are of disappointing quality . I used one as a spare steam connection on my cylinder top plate , for hydraulics and such , but had to do some refinishing before I was happy with it .

If the thread has stripped on the bottom of your steam cock . then you could machine away the stub , and drill and tap for a stainless bolt , which with a nut and washer should work well enough for the time being . Leave the hex or socket on it in case you need to tighten or remove it . Or else replace with a modern valve , which will work better anyway . Most engines have had globe valves fitted by now , but a modern ball valve will work best of all , like an on/off switch . Use a machine wire brush to remove the plating , and make up a suitably period handle for it . Look up the BOSS catalogue on line , they are cheap as chips , but make sure they are suitable for the temperature and pressure .

Needless to say , I am being taken to task on another thread , by one of the usual suspects , on this very matter

Nicest injector I've ever used is on a ploughing engine. It has a taper cock for the steam, and the injector overflow is lead upwards to the level of the top of the tank then turned down. The water valve stays open, all you have to do is gently open the steam cock. No messing, no waste on the road, one handed job that you don't even have to look at, only listen to. It's superb.

Are the Mala taper plug cocks that HSS sell any good for you?

An Indian company called ATAM Valves do both a screwed and flanged taper plug cock in all the normal sizes. Asbestos packed as well as just a standard seal using the taper.

They also make injectors and clack valves. Ive bought via work colleagues in the past and theyve brought the bits back in hand luggage. The costs is staggeringly low.

And they look 100% traditional. No shitty chrome or stainless ball valves as advocated by Bob.

I'd not seen those!

Are they any good? Looks just the job to be honest.